2011 V6: Installed Steeda LCA's Tonight!

I waited until sunset, when the temperature was only 104, before embarking on the do-it-yourself job of installing my new Steeda Chrome Moly Lower Control Arms (LCA's) in my driveway. The garage is too junky right now, besides, the humidity was kickin'!

The job took quite a bit longer than I had hoped, but only because space was so limited (jack stands, with the rear tires on the ground). The job was really easy, relatively speaking, with "breaking" the bolts and torquing them again being the only real challenge.

I used a smallish phillips screwdriver to pry off the parking break retaining tab at behind and atop the disc assemblies. I also used a box-end wrench (sorry, I can't remember whether it was the 19mm or the 21mm), and the same size in a socket, along with an 18" long breaker bar, a 12" long ratchet, a torque wrench, as 129ft-lbs needed to be applied, and a mechanic's extension cord with a shop light on it.

Those silly Ford people designed/installed self-restraining aluminum tabs on the inner portions of the LCA housings, so it was not necessary to fight with wrenches on both sides of the pivots (to keep the nut from spinning around while loosening and tightening the bolts). :bigthumbsup I like that! It could have been a lot worse, for sure!

I chocked the front tires and shifted into reverse before starting. Not sure if the manual acts like it has a transmission brake on or not, but I did it anyway, to get tension off the emergency brake line so it could be easily manipulated. I don't like the ridiculous tiny zip-ties Steeda provided for the brake lines. They'll have to go. I'm going to replace them with metal hose clamps, as the sun and heat will eat them in no time. I was very careful to read (and COMPREHEND) Steeda's slightly less than detailed instructions (if you're uncomfortable around cars, then find a Chilton's manual if one exists, otherwise you're stuck with Haynes, I guess). I have neither. It really wasn't that tough, just a few minor details to inspect before starting work. Be SURE to grease the urethane bushings too! Steeda provides everything you need.

The entire job took about 4 hours, but only because I had to keep hydrating, I was scrounging for tools I'd had packed away forever, took several breaks to talk to a buddy who came over to see what I was doing, had to tend to pets, and my wife called a few times. Realistically, I'd say (assuming you have all your ducks lined up) it should take maybe 30 minutes for each side, if not slightly more. That's only a guess though.

After installing the new LCA's, I took pony for a spin and lit up the stock BFG touring radials several times. Each time I revved up to 3000 RPM from a dead stop, then launched and boiled the non-grabbing radials up to just shy of 6000 RPM. She screamed, squatted, put her nose up, but NEVER ONCE HOPPED!!! This has never happened before!

I also took a slow u-turn, creeped in 1st gear until she was straightened back out, then laid hard on the accelerator. She scalded the skins once more, but broke loose and fish-tailed all over the place, but DID NOT HOP!!! NEVER!!!

In all I performed 4 tests: two from dead stops on flat roads; one with brand new, perfect asphalt and one with ragged asphalt, one from a stop facing uphill, and the last was the u-turn on perfect asphalt.

Tomorrow I'll be in for tire rotation and an oil change at my favorite grease monkey shop. I'll ask them to inspect my work and check the torque on the bolts while I'm there, just as added insurance.

I can tell I'm gonna love these LCA's! Another thing for certain: when the day comes that I get a rear Upper Control Arm, a shop is gonna do it! It's just too tight up under there, plunking around in the driveway at night.