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First, I need to thank John (JH1973) with Audio Integration Solutions for the wire harness I needed without a line output converter, using the high level inputs on the sub. He was very helpful and answered all the questions I asked when I installed it. Here are a few details of my install, and hope it helps anyone installing an amp/sub in their 2020 Terrain...
I installed the Rockville RockGhost 8" powered sub. Rockville RockGhost Active 8" Car Subwoofer For 15"/16"/17" Full Size Spare Tire
It is designed to fit in the spare tire well, and it does very well. The only negative, was that the wing nut on the top of the sub that secures it in place, does contact the cover over the spare tire compartment, but it doesn't prevent it from going on. It could easily be replaced with a regular nut, though, which should take care of it. It came with all necessary wiring for the install, too, which was also nice!
I previously installed 6 3/4" component Rockford Fosgate R1675-S speakers in the front doors, which did actually help with some of the bass response of my factory radio, but the lower level lows were still really weak. I needed something to fill out those lows... This sub was a perfect solution for me. I didn't want a box taking up space in the back, and I learned I didn't want a small powered sub under the seat. With that said, I originally purchased a Cerwin Vega VPAS10 10" powered sub, that at first glance, fit perfectly under the rear seats, but I soon discovered that if you put the seats down, it crushes it... so DO NOT try this!!!! The RockGhost I ended up installing puts out really good bass, and I definitely recommend it!
My tips...
Getting through the firewall: this was a LOT EASIER than I anticipated. I straightened out a wire coat hanger, and used electrical tape to attach the power wire to it. On the passenger side in the engine compartment, there is a grommet with wires going through that is sealed with black filler (goo). To get better access to it, I removed the last tab that holds the firewall insulation in place (it is a circular, flat piece of metal that basically has a large asterisk in the middle), just under the top rim of the engine compartment... it's easy to remove, once you know how. It took me a minute to figure it out, but you can just unscrew it, and it comes off (when putting it back on, you only have to push it back in place). I pulled the insulation down a bit, and had easy access to the grommet and wires. I just poked the coat hanger through the goo right next to the wires, and then went inside the car where the wires were coming through, pulled it through a little further, untaped the hanger, went back to the engine compartment and pulled the hanger out, leaving the power wire in place. The power wire was easy to pull through from there. The power wire ran easily under the floor trim all the way back.
Installing the harness: As I stated above, I did not purchase a LOC, and just used the high level inputs on my powered sub. I did this partly because it was cheaper, but also because I did not have to run a remote wire. This powered sub has a low pass filter, so I didn't see the need to use the low level inputs, either.
On the driver's side, near the accelerator, there is a little panel on the middle console. Remove it, and then remove the one screw holding the panel in place (8 mm socket, I believe). There is an orange strap/handle in there, and I thought it might be used to help remove the panel... DO NOT DO THIS!!!! Apparently, that strap disengages Park, and puts the car in Neutral. My driveway is slightly sloped, and my car started to roll when I pulled it. Luckily, it pushed right back into place and didn't roll far. Anyway, the actual stereo is just inside this panel. I pulled the side panel off of the middle console (there are several tabs holding it in place that just pop off), and just slid it up and back a little, which gave me enough room to access the stereo connectors (I also suggest taking the floor mat out, it hinders moving the panel). My stereo had a black connector with a red tab that slides back. The harness I purchased from Audio Integration Solutions had a green connector that just plugged right in the stereo there, and then plugged the original black connector into the other end of the harness. There are four wires coming off of the harness that I used to connect to the high level inputs on the powered sub. It all tucked in nicely inside the panel, and behind the carpet behind the pedals. The speaker wires I connected to the harness for the high level input ran easily under the trim by the floor board all the way back.
Ground Wire: Since my amp/sub is in the spare tire well, I grounded it back there, too. There are 5 small bolts that stick out of the frame that hold the large plastic piece that makes the compartment for the tire well in place, one of them worked perfectly for my ground. To remove the plastic piece, you need to remove 5 nuts that require a deep 10 mm socket, three in the front and two that hold the back corners in place. After removing them, it pops right out. The middle bolt sticking up on the front part of the well is what I used for the ground. I scraped the paint off around it with a flat screwdriver, put the ring terminal of the ground wire on the bolt and I decided to put a metal washer over it, thinking it would allow for a better ground. I put the plastic piece back on, screwed the five nuts back tight, and it was good to go! I was worried there might be ground noise or whine, but there is none whatsoever!
If I think of any other things that may be helpful, I'll update this post. I'd be happy to answer any questions, too!
08.27.2013
