Toyota Supra Bulb Size Reference (1986–2025 US Models)
Last Updated on 2025-12-21
Why the Toyota Supra bulb size matters more than people think
Owning a Supra means you already think in terms of performance, value, and dream outcome. You care how the car looks at night in a parking lot, how much road you can see on an empty highway, and whether other drivers actually see your brake lights in time. That is where the very un-glamorous topic of Toyota Supra bulb size suddenly starts to matter a lot.
I’ve seen people throw egregious amounts of money at suspension and power upgrades, then run half-dead halogen headlights or random LEDs that scatter light everywhere. No bueno. When you know the correct Toyota Supra bulb size for your generation, and you match it with decent parts, you fix three things at once: visibility, safety, and the visual “attitude” of the car.
This guide walks through every US-market generation that actually called itself Supra: the A70 (mid-80s hero), the A80 (the legend), and the modern A90 GR Supra with its factory LED setup. You’ll get clear tables with bulb sizes, practical notes about what usually fails, and where upgrading makes real value instead of a headache. If your goal is a Supra that looks sharp, lights the road well, and passes inspection without drama, dial in the correct Toyota Supra bulb size before you start shopping.
quick snapshot of Toyota Supra bulb size by generation
Before we dive into details, here’s a quick overview of the main exterior bulb sizes for US models. Use this as a fast reference, then scroll down to your exact year for the full breakdown.
| Generation | Model years (US) | Low / high beam | Front fog | Rear tail / stop |
| A70 Supra | 1986.5–1992 | H6054 sealed beam | n/a from factory | 1157 |
| A80 Supra (pre-facelift) | 1993–1996 | Low: 9006 High: 9005 | H3-55W | 1157 |
| A80 Supra (facelift) | 1997–1998 | Low: 9006 High: 9005 | H3-55W | 7443 |
| A90 GR Supra | 2020–present | LED module assembly | LED (if equipped) | LED assembly |
This isn’t the whole story. The Toyota Supra bulb size puzzle includes turn signals, side markers, license plate lights, and a few quirky interior bulbs that age out after decades. Let’s go generation by generation.
a70 supra (1986.5–1992) bulb sizes and tips
The A70 Supra runs old-school rectangular sealed beams up front and a mix of classic 194/1156/1157 bulbs around the car. Headlights are straightforward: one H6054 per side covers both low and high beams. The value move here is to refresh the entire front lighting at once, because if one sealed beam is tired, the other usually isn’t far behind.
| Position | Bulb type | Notes |
| Headlight (low / high, each side) | H6054 sealed beam | One unit per side, easy to swap, huge upgrade potential with quality LED sealed beams. |
| Front parking light | 194 | Same base as many interior bulbs; great candidate for modest LED upgrades. |
| Front side marker | 194 | Usually amber; check housing for color before choosing white vs amber LED. |
| Front turn signal | 1156 | Single-filament bulb; use CANbus-friendly LEDs if you want to avoid hyperflash. |
| Tail light (running) | 1157 | Shared with brake; dual-filament. |
| Brake light | 1157 | LED upgrade gives much faster on/off, which is a neat safety bonus. |
| Rear turn signal | 1156 | Separate from tail/brake lamps on most A70 tails. |
| Rear side marker | 194 | Good place for subtle LED modernization. |
| Reverse light | 1156 | LED here massively improves backing visibility at night. |
| Center high mount stop (CHMSL) | 1156 | Often forgotten; worth refreshing when you do the main brake lights. |
| License plate | 89 | Small, but a failed plate light can still attract tickets. |
On A70 cars, the most common complaints I see: tired sealed beams with a yellow, smeared pattern, and crusty grounds creating random dimming. When you choose a modern sealed beam replacement, don’t chase lumen numbers alone; look at beam shape and cutoff so you don’t become that guy throwing glare all over the demand curve of oncoming traffic.
a80 supra (1993–1996) pre-facelift bulb sizes
Now we hit the halo car. For 1993–1996 US Supras, Toyota moved to separate bulbs for low and high beam, plus more modern housings and dedicated fog lights. The pre-facelift cars use classic 9006 low beams and 9005 highs, while the rest of the exterior sticks with 1156/1157 and 168/194 style bulbs.
| Position (1993–1996) | Bulb type | Notes |
| Low beam headlight | 9006 | Primary night-driving beam; where most owners feel the biggest upgrade. |
| High beam headlight | 9005 | Works with projector/reflector optics; avoid oversized LED heat sinks that foul the dust caps. |
| Front fog / driving light | H3-55W | Mounted low; great candidate for selective yellow upgrades. |
| Front parking light | 168 | Often shares the housing with the front indicator. |
| Front turn signal | 1156 | Single-filament; LED swap may need resistors or a new flasher. |
| Tail light (running) | 1157 | Dual-filament with the brake function. |
| Brake light | 1157 | LEDs here help you shout “stop” with more urgency. |
| Rear turn signal | 1156 | Separate indicator section in the tail lamp. |
| Reverse light | 1156 | LED upgrade is a massive quality of life improvement when parking at night. |
| License plate | 168 | Swapping to a neutral-white LED keeps the rear look cleaner. |
| Front side marker | 194 | Small, but helps the Supra’s silhouette stand out at night cross-traffic. |
| Rear side marker | 194 | Good to refresh when you work on the tails. |
If your dream outcome here is OEM-plus looks with stronger output, high-quality 9006/9005 LEDs or HIDs in proper projectors can deliver huge value. The trap I see: people grab the absolute cheapest LEDs, ignore the beam pattern, blind everyone, and then complain the Supra “sucks at it.” The problem is the bulb, not the car.
a80 supra (1997–1998) facelift bulb sizes
The late A80 facelift brought different bulb types in the front corner lights and tail lamps: 7440 and 7443 wedge bulbs replace the older 1156/1157 setup, and some small park/plate bulbs switch to the 2825 designation. The headlight Toyota Supra bulb size story stays the same: 9006 low, 9005 high.
| Position (1997–1998) | Bulb type | Notes |
| Low beam headlight | 9006 | Still the main workhorse for night driving. |
| High beam headlight | 9005 | Pairs well with a quality LED high-beam conversion if aligned correctly. |
| Front fog / driving light | H3-55W | Mounted low, useful in rain and mist. |
| Front parking light | 2825 | Also seen as W5W; tiny wedge bulb. |
| Front turn signal | 7440 | Single-filament turn bulb; very common in 90s–2000s Toyotas. |
| Tail / brake light | 7443 | Dual-filament, handles both running and stop functions. |
| Rear turn signal | 7440 | Separate lens section; LED upgrade needs hyperflash fixes. |
| Reverse light | 7440 | Nice place for a bright LED upgrade. |
| License plate | 2825 | Quick cosmetic refresh; cheap and effective. |
| Front side marker | 194 | Same as earlier years, still 194. |
| Rear side marker | 194 | Worth changing when tails are out. |
If you own a 1997–1998 car, your Toyota Supra bulb size setup is a bit friendlier to modern LEDs, thanks to those 7440/7443 sockets. That said, you still want balanced color temperature. Slamming in ice-blue LEDs everywhere while keeping stock 9006 halogens in the headlights creates a weird, mismatched value discrepancy between what the car looks like and how much you can actually see.
A90 gr supra (2020–present) led modules and assemblies
The A90 GR Supra lives in a different universe. From the factory, your Toyota Supra bulb size chart is full of the word “LED” instead of traditional halogen codes. The headlights are self-contained LED modules, the tail lights are LED assemblies, and most small exterior lamps are LED strips or boards instead of separate, serviceable bulbs.
You rarely swap “a bulb” on this car. You replace an entire assembly if something fails, which has a very different cost structure and scarcity profile compared to a pack of 1157s.
| Position (2020–present) | Bulb / module | Notes |
| Headlight (low / high) | LED module assembly | Full LED housing; failure usually means replacing the entire lamp unit. |
| Daytime running light (DRL) | Integrated LED strip | Part of the headlamp assembly. |
| Front turn signal | LED array | Built into headlamp; sequential style on many aftermarket options. |
| Front side marker | LED module | Common mod is smoked LED replacements. |
| Fog light (if equipped) | LED unit | Trim-dependent; many cars skip factory fogs entirely. |
| Tail / brake light | LED assembly | All functions packed into a single sealed housing. |
| Rear turn signal | LED array | Sequential animation on many aftermarket tails. |
| Reverse light | LED module | Very bright from factory compared with older gens. |
| High mount stop (CHMSL) | LED strip | Usually only replaced as a full unit if it fails. |
| License plate | LED module | Already white and crisp compared to old halogens. |
On the A90, the Toyota Supra bulb size decision mostly appears when you choose aftermarket assemblies or replacement LED tails/headlights. Here, the big lever on value is picking reputable brands with real heat management and a warranty that feels like a guarantee, not marketing fluff.
Common supra lighting problems by generation
Across all three generations, the patterns repeat with disproportionate consistency. When someone complains about “bad lights,” it’s rarely the entire electrical system dying. It’s either aging bulbs, poor grounds, or low-quality upgrades.
On A70 cars, sealed beams fade over time; the glass stays there, but the beam turns into a vague smear, especially in the rain. Corroded grounds in the pop-up headlight wiring can add extra resistance, which robs voltage and makes even new bulbs look weak.
On A80s, the usual suspects are cloudy headlight lenses, cheap HID kits crammed into halogen projectors, and random LEDs in the tails that don’t match brightness left to right. I’ve seen brake light upgrades where one side is blazing, and the other is barely awake. That kind of value discrepancy screams “fix me” to anyone following you.
On A90s, the issues are different. You might see condensation in LED assemblies, occasional dead segments in a DRL strip, or aftermarket tails that throw CANbus errors. Because each failure involves an entire unit, the repair bill can grate on your belief system fast.
Choosing LEDs for your Supra without making expensive mistakes
LED upgrades feel like candy. The psychological trick is simple: more lumens on the box look like more value. In practice, the wrong LED in the wrong housing can ruin your beam pattern, annoy everyone, and actually make you see less.
When you’re picking LEDs for any Toyota Supra bulb size that originally used halogen, pay attention to three things: beam pattern, thermal management, and electrical behavior.
- Beam pattern: the LED chips should mimic the placement of the original filament, so the reflector or projector throws light where it belongs.
- Thermal management: fans vs passive heat sinks, how big the base is, and whether it fits under stock caps.
- Electrical behavior: CANbus compatibility, no random strobing, no permanent “bulb out” warnings.
If you want to experiment on a budget, start with small, low-risk circuits like license plate or interior bulbs. For example, grabbing a pack of 7443 LED bulbs for a facelift A80 tail light is a cheap way to modernize the rear without touching the critical headlight beam pattern.
How to replace bulbs on a Supra in the real world
Replacing bulbs sounds trivial until you meet 30-year-old plastic, seized screws, and fragile connectors. The Toyota Supra bulb size itself is the easy part; accessing the socket cleanly is where people either win or snap tabs.
On A70 cars, headlight sealed beams come out with trim removal and a retaining ring. The trick is to support the housing while you undo the screws, so you don’t torque the brackets. The rear bulbs are usually accessed from inside the hatch, via removable panels behind the taillights.
On A80s, headlight bulbs sit behind dust caps on the back of the housing. Give yourself room by turning the steering wheel and peeling back inner fender liners if needed. Fog light H3s often require getting under the bumper. For the rear, the whole tail assembly comes free with a handful of nuts; then you twist the bulb holders out and swap your 7440/7443 or 1156/1157 bulbs.
On the A90, you’re not replacing individual Toyota Supra bulb-size parts in the same way. Most exterior lighting service involves either:
1) removing the front bumper and swapping an entire LED headlight assembly, or 2) removing the rear trim and changing out the full LED taillights. This feels less like “change a bulb” and more like a mini body-work session, so plan time and workspace accordingly.
When DIY lighting work is a bad idea
I’m a fan of wrenching at home, but there are scenarios where doing your own Toyota Supra bulb size changes can cost more in the long run.
If your A70 or A80 has a known history of brittle plastics, cracked mounting tabs, or collision repairs, pulling housings can be risky. One broken headlight tab suddenly turns a cheap bulb swap into a housing hunt with ugly scarcity pricing.
On A90 cars, anything that requires coding, adaptive headlight calibration, or deals with airbag-adjacent trim is a strong candidate for a good independent shop or dealer. LED assemblies are expensive; if warranty or insurance might cover a failure, let the paperwork people handle it.
Electrical diagnosis is another zone where DIY can get sketchy. If multiple lights misbehave at once, and swapping bulbs doesn’t fix it, you might be dealing with grounding, relays, or control modules. Randomly probing wires with a test light near an expensive ECU is not the dream outcome.
FAQ: Toyota Supra bulb size questions people actually ask
How many times do I need to think about the Toyota Supra bulb size?
Realistically, not very often. On A70 and A80 cars, you’ll think about it whenever a bulb fails, or you decide to modernize with LEDs. On A90 cars, you mostly think about it when shopping for aftermarket assemblies. Still, knowing your Toyota Supra bulb size ahead of time saves returns, shipping, and “gimme my money back” moments.
Can I run LED bulbs in stock A80 headlight housings?
You can, but you need LED bulbs designed for halogen projectors or reflectors. Poorly designed LEDs will spray light everywhere, create glare, and make the car feel fast but blind. Aim for bulbs with a focused beam pattern, good heat sinks, and decent reviews, even if they eat a bit more of your profit margins than bargain-bin stuff.
Are sealed beam upgrades worth it on the A70?
Yes. The stock H6054 sealed beams are ancient tech. A quality LED sealed beam with a proper cutoff can give you a massive lighting upgrade while keeping a plug-and-play install. That’s a big value for a single evening of work.
What’s the most impactful bulb upgrade on an A80 Supra?
If you drive at night a lot, upgrading the 9006 low beams with a high-quality LED or HID solution in proper projectors has the biggest impact. If you’re more concerned with how the car looks and how clearly other drivers see you, refreshing 7443 or 1157 tail/brake bulbs with bright red LEDs is a strong play.
Do a90 LED assemblies really fail that often?
Not in huge numbers, but when they do, they’re expensive. LED modules last a long time when cooled properly, yet moisture, collisions, or cheap aftermarket units can cause early death. That’s why picking assemblies with a decent warranty feels like a subtle guarantee that protects your wallet.
Will LED turn signals make my Supra hyperflash?
On A70 and A80 cars, yes, usually. Whenever you replace 1156, 7440, 1157, or 7443 incandescent bulbs with LEDs, the lower resistance confuses the flasher. You fix it with either load resistors or an LED-compatible flasher relay. On the A90, it depends on the specific aftermarket tails and how they handle CANbus.
Is mixing bulb colors a problem?
From a legal standpoint, yes, in some cases. White/amber to the front, red/amber to the rear. From a style standpoint, mismatched color temperature (warm yellow headlights with ice-white DRLs) looks off. When you upgrade, aim for a coherent color story so the car looks intentional instead of random.
Which supra generation is easiest for diy bulb work?
The A70 wins for simplicity: pop-up sealed beams and classic bulb types make the Toyota Supra bulb size situation very straightforward. The A80 sits in the middle: more modern, but still mostly simple sockets. The A90 is the hardest because many “bulbs” are sealed LED assemblies.
Can bulb upgrades really change resale value?
They won’t rewrite the entire demand curve for your car, but they can nudge perception. Clean, modern lighting makes a Supra feel better maintained. Mis-matched, flickering LEDs scream “owner cut corners.” That quiet psychological effect influences how buyers feel about the rest of the car.
What’s the smartest way to shop for bulbs for a Supra?
Decide your target Toyota Supra bulb size list first, generation by generation. Then, search for those codes directly, like 9006 LED bulb or 7440 amber LED. Compare beam shots and reviews instead of marketing claims alone. A little homework up front creates long-term value, saves rework, and keeps your Supra lighting feeling sharp under any streetlight.
If you treat your Toyota Supra bulb size choices as part of the whole build, not an afterthought, you get a car that looks the part, drives safer at night, and quietly tells everyone who sees it that you know what you’re doing.
