Replacing Spark Plugs And Ignition Coils On A Chrysler 300 To Fix Engine Misfires
Last Updated on 2025-09-07
In this hearty ride-along, we step into car maintenance with the grace of a ballet dancer and the precession of a Swiss watch. Keen-eyed DIYers, welcome on board. Today, let’s dive into the core of Chrysler 300—a real bad boy that loves cruising and, at times, throwing a naughty misfire tantrum. Our goal is to replace the spark plugs and ignition coils to calm this devil down.
Our star today is a 2013 Chrysler 300 with a rugged 3.6L Pentastar engine. Rear wheel drives as well as the inline engine layout have this model crying out for its grande master. Unlike transverse counterparts, this configuration places the cylinders in a straight line, offering a one-of-a-kind advantage for ease-of-access maintenance aficionados.
Preparation and Access
Commencing this operation requires a blend of finesse and brute force. The first act involves removing the engine cover and airbox, a straightforward task marked by the removal of a few 8mm bolts and an electrical connector. This initial step is akin to opening a treasure chest, revealing the sparkly innards of your vehicle’s engine bay.
Introducing the Players: Spark Plugs and Ignition Coils
The spark plugs and ignition coils- our major actors, live on both sides of this engine, which is quite an impressive feat. Gaining access to them is a magnificent journey in itself, skillfully performed by carefully manipulating many other parts such as electrical connectors, vacuum hoses, and yes, even the infamous 10mm nut or two. The preparations are finally done so let’s get rolling.
The Heart of the Matter: Unscrewing the Bolt and Removing the Cap
Now that the pathway has been set, let’s dive right into the thick of it. With the utmost regard to the engine’s intricate design, replacing the spark plugs and ignition coils is quite the process. All of the spark plugs need to be ‘left’ coaxed out and unscrewed which can be challenging since each of them is held in place by a 10mm bolt. However, with the right equipment, which in this case is either a 16mm or 5/8 socket, the task of removing all of the spark plugs should go fairly smoothly.
As you proceed ahead, always keep in mind the guidance of the older people: the distance between the two electrodes of a spark plug is important as disturbing it can cause disorder. So, equipped with a sturdy spark plug boot or a magnetic tool, you must guarantee careful placing and removal of these important pieces.
Sealing Fate: The Reassembly
After placing new spark plugs and ignition coils into position, and applying dielectric grease to prevent potential electrical issues, I began reassembly. This stage was a recollection, and it required surgical precision, because each connector, vacuum line, and bolt had to go back into position; the manifold also had to be bolted on like a jeweler setting his diamond.
Replacing the plugs required a minimum of 13 foot pounds of torque to be claimed, while the manifold bolts were somewhat more difficult at 7-9 Newton meters but made perfect seal when tightened. Torque specs became your gospel and guided every twist and turn.
The Final Curtain
The performance came to an end with the shutting of the Chrysler 300’s engine cover, which had put on quite a show. After undergoing repairs, serivce, and recalibration to the timing and ignition system, the once stubborn muscle car, is now jawning like a “well-fed-lion” ready to hit the streets.
Take this as a friendly reminder to control the tools with marvoulous maestros precision. Furthermore, I trust and hope in my dear reader that wish to go for ”smooth and trouble free journey”.
