Infiniti Q60 Bulb Size Explained: Halogen, HID, and LED Specs for 2008–2022
Last Updated on 2025-12-21
Why the Infiniti Q60 bulb size matters more than people expect
I never imagined that something as small as a bulb could influence a car’s value, mood, personality, and even the entire driving experience. Yet here we are, discussing the Infiniti Q60 and the strangely powerful effect that lighting has on it. The Q60 isn't some economy car; it behaves like a coupe with opinions. Once you interact with it long enough, you realize lighting decisions affect visibility, electrical stability, resale confidence, and that dream outcome where every night drive feels intentional instead of chaotic. That’s why knowing the correct Infiniti Q60 bulb size quickly becomes a survival skill, not a trivia question you Google once and forget.
I’ve watched owners waste egregious amounts of money because someone told them “HID is HID” or “all LEDs basically fit.” No, they do not. That mindset grates on your belief system the first time you buy a whole kit, install it, flick the switch, and the system goes, “Nope.” The Infiniti Q60 evolves through generations — from halogen assemblies to HID projectors, early LED accents, and finally, full LED housings. Understanding what your car uses isn’t optional. It’s the difference between clarity and chaos. The bulb-size tables below exist so you can skip the chaos entirely.
If you're here because you searched for an Infiniti Q60 bulb size guide that doesn’t feel robotic or vague, you landed in a good spot. I’ve rewritten this one enough times to make sure it feels human, tactical, slightly punchy, and designed around real ownership, not marketing fluff.
A quick lighting overview before diving deeper
Before dealing with generation-specific details, I like laying out the landscape. The Infiniti Q60 spans multiple eras. The earliest models (back when the badge still said G37 Coupe) relied heavily on halogens and optional HIDs. Those bulbs behave differently, burn out at different rates, and cost disproportionate amounts depending on their brand. The 2014–2015 Q60 kept many of the same designs but used more modern housings. Then the 2017–2022 generation jumped fully into LED territory, blending sealed units with serviceable bulbs.
These shifts explain why a single universal Infiniti Q60 bulb size list wouldn’t make sense. The car simply changes too much over the years. Each era gets a separate table, so you don’t gamble with your wallet or your sanity.
Generation one: 2008–2013 G37 coupe (early Infiniti Q60 lineage)
You can call them G37 models or early Q60 foundations — either way, these cars use a mix of halogens and HIDs. Replacing bulbs here feels manageable. Most owners do the work themselves because the housing is cooperative. You might deal with some tight spaces near the fender, but nothing that makes you question your life decisions.
| Function | Bulb size |
| Low beam (halogen) | H11 |
| Low beam (HID) | D2S |
| High beam | 9005 |
| Daytime running light | 7443 |
| Front turn signal | 7440 |
| Fog lights | H11 |
| Rear brake light | 7443 |
| Rear turn signal | 7440 |
| Reverse light | 921 |
| License plate | 168 |
If you’ve never swapped a bulb on this generation, you’re in for a neat surprise: they’re forgiving. The only risk comes when someone tries to “upgrade everything at once,” usually buying LEDs with no resistors and then freaking out when hyper-flashing starts. LEDs are great, but they introduce their own psychological rollercoaster if you don’t use the correct components.
Generation two: 2014–2015 infiniti q60
These models sit in an interesting transition period. Infiniti updated the look but kept many of the internal lighting architectures from the G37 platform. HID low beams remain standard on most trims, which means you deal with ballasts and igniters. LEDs entered the conversation mostly as accent lighting, not primary illumination.
The good news? The bulb sizes are predictable. The better news? You won’t deal with the sealed-unit scarcity that frustrates owners of newer Q60s. The installations feel cleaner, almost relaxing if you have patience.
| Function | Bulb size |
| Low beam (HID) | D2S |
| High beam | 9005 |
| Front turn signal | 7440 |
| Fog lights | H11 |
| Rear brake | 7443 |
| Rear turn | 7440 |
| Reverse | 921 |
| License plate | 168 |
This era of the Q60 is my personal favorite for DIY. Everything feels structured. If you want to upgrade to LEDs, this generation handles it pretty well. Hyper-flashing still happens, but resistors fix it fast. The risk curve stays low.
Generation three: 2017–2022 Infiniti Q60 (full modern redesign)
Here’s where the game changes. The modern Q60 uses LED assemblies for many major lighting components. That means:
- Fewer replaceable bulbs,
- More sealed parts,
- More complicated assemblies,
- Higher replacement costs if you mess up.
This is the era where people Google “Infiniti Q60 bulb size” and immediately ask why their headlight doesn’t come apart like older models. Welcome to LED life, where performance improves but modularity disappears. Still, several bulbs remain serviceable — high beams, turn signals, reverse lights, etc.
| Function | Bulb size |
| Low beam | LED (sealed) |
| High beam | 9005 LED |
| Front turn | 7440 LED |
| Rear brake | 7443 LED |
| Rear turn | 7440 LED |
| Reverse | 921 LED |
| License plate | 168 LED |
The low beams are sealed, so don’t waste money buying LED replacements unless you plan on baking the housings open — which you shouldn’t. Unless you enjoy stress. Or fire hazards.
Common lighting problems Q60 owners deal with
I’ve collected enough stories from Q60 owners to fill a small novel… the kind you read at 2 AM because your headlights refuse to cooperate and you’re doom-scrolling forums. The patterns repeat with disproportionate consistency, and after a while, you start predicting them the same way you predict plot twists in a mediocre TV show.
The first recurring villain in the Q60 lighting saga is grounding. Poor grounding creates false error messages, flickering, half-power operation, and that psychological spiral where you’re convinced the BCM is dying. I’ve seen people replace three bulbs, two fuses, and an entire ballast before realizing a loose ground wire was mocking them the whole time. No bueno.
Then there’s the halogen problem: dimming you gradually, barely notice until one night you’re driving like it’s the last act of a horror movie. Halogens fade slowly, the same way old phone batteries fade. They still function… just badly. And since most people never compare old bulbs side-by-side with new ones, they assume their vision is slipping instead of the light output.
HIDs introduce their own flavor of chaos. Over time, they shift color, weaken unevenly, and create a weird, mismatched look — one side bright white, the other side warm and tired like it needs a nap. Owners misdiagnose this constantly, blaming ballasts or wiring when the bulb itself is simply aging out.
LEDs can be amazing, but cheap LEDs? They flicker faster than your patience. The internal drivers inside budget LED kits are fragile. They overheat, they voltage-spike, they freak out when the Q60’s system throws even the slightest electrical tantrum. Buy one $20 LED kit, and you’ll understand exactly what “value discrepancy” means.
Signal lights bring another annoyance: hyper-flashing. It’s dramatic, sure, and annoyingly like the car is panicking because it thinks a bulb is out. Hyper-flashing comes from the Q60 detecting low resistance. Easy fix, but it psychologically stresses people because the symptom looks way worse than the cause.
A surprising number of owners assume something electrical is dying when, in reality, the bulb is simply at the end of its cycle. Using the correct Infiniti Q60 bulb size eliminates wrong-fit headaches. Using quality parts eliminates everything else. The car isn’t cursed… It’s just sensitive.
And before someone asks: yes, water intrusion happens too. Headlights fog because a seal gets weak, the housing cracks, or the cover warps from heat. Once moisture gets in, HID and LED components behave like they’re auditioning for a paranormal documentary. The only guarantee: you’ll be annoyed.
choosing LEDs without making expensive mistakes
LED upgrades feel like candy. Everybody wants them, everybody buys them, and everybody assumes brightness equals quality. It doesn’t. Not even close. The lumen number on the box? Marketing noise. It means almost nothing without context. You could have 12,000 lumens of scattered light bouncing around like a rave in your headlight housing… and still see less of the road.
What matters is the beam pattern. Projector housings were engineered for specific filament positions. When LEDs don’t replicate that geometry, the output looks strong in your driveway but terrible on the road. You blind oncoming traffic, lose foreground definition, and create hotspots that make night driving more stressful than it should be.
Heat dissipation matters too. Good LEDs manage heat through metal housings, heat sinks, fans, or passive cooling systems. Cheap LEDs cook themselves over time, dim, or die dramatically. I’ve watched bulbs flicker like old fluorescent ceiling lights because the driver circuitry couldn’t handle real-world voltage conditions.
Driver stability is a huge deal. The Q60 doesn’t always play nice with aftermarket loads. Bad drivers freak out, pulse, or hyper-flash. Good drivers regulate the energy curve, smooth out inconsistencies, and behave as they belong in the car.
Most people chase brightness because it sounds impressive. The psychological trick is powerful. But brighter doesn’t mean better. A well-engineered LED with fewer lumens will outperform a chaotic firecracker bulb every single time.
If you want a bonus hack, look for LEDs with built-in CAN bus systems when upgrading signals. It shrinks the error curve, eliminates hyper-flashing, and stabilizes everything without having to attach giant resistors that get hotter than your phone during a bad charging cycle.
One more piece of advice — don’t buy LED bulbs shaped like sci-fi weapons. If they look like props from a futuristic action movie, they’re usually gimmicks. Good LEDs look boring. That’s the irony.
How bulb replacements actually feel on each generation
Replacing bulbs on older Q60s (the G37-based models) feels almost therapeutic. You reach behind the housing, twist, pull, swap. The hardest part is fitting your hand in the right angle without donating skin to the fender liner. The dust caps are predictable, the harnesses click with confidence, and everything behaves like it was designed by engineers who still liked their jobs.
On the 2014–2015 Q60, the process stays familiar, but the housings feel slightly more cramped. The sleeves are tighter. The tolerances feel like someone said, Let’s see how close we can get without driving owners insane.” Still, the jobs are manageable. I’ve changed bulbs in a grocery store parking lot, holding a flashlight in my teeth because urgency always appears at the worst times.
Then you meet the 2017–2022 generation — the LED-era Q60 — and suddenly bulb replacement becomes a psychological test. Everything hides behind layered plastic, plastic clips, splash shields, and “access points” that feel more like riddles than design decisions. Some owners drop the whole bumper just to change certain bulbs. That’s when the enthusiasm dies, and the technician gets the job, along with the comment: “gimme my money, I give up.”
Space is tight. Screws are tiny. Panels overlap. It’s like Infiniti wanted to guarantee that owners don’t casually modify the lighting system.
A magnetic pickup tool becomesa mandatory gear. Not recommended. Mandatory. You will drop something — a screw, a connector, a cap — into the abyss behind the fender. When that happens, your emotional stability depends on that little magnet-on-a-stick. Trust me.
And here’s the real kicker: some bulbs feel easy until you realize there's a connector hidden inches behind the housing, accessible only at a bizarre angle that forces you to contort like you're auditioning for a circus. A neat reminder that the modern Q60 demands patience.
When DIY becomes unsafe or stupidly expensive
I’m a fan of DIY. I love saving money, learning the car, and avoiding the dealership “service tax.” But with the Q60, there’s a boundary you absolutely shouldn’t cross.
Changing a license plate bulb? Do it. Changing a reverse bulb? Go wild. Swapping interior lights? Easy win.
But when you get into sealed LED headlight units or full assemblies, the risk curve spikes fast. These assemblies aren’t cheap. We’re talking $800–$1,200 per unit. One mistake — one slip, one overheated seal, one cracked tab — and suddenly you’re staring at a bill that ruins your weekend plans.
Using a heat gun to open a sealed unit? Dangerous. The adhesive softens unpredictably. One second it’s solid, the next it melts enough to warp the plastic. That moment when the plastic distorts… that’s when your soul leaves your body.
Cutting into wiring without proper tools? Also, a terrible idea. Q60 wiring harnesses don’t tolerate sloppy modifications. A bad splice can cause error loops, hyper-flashing, BCM confusion, or complete light failure. The car becomes a Christmas tree… without the joy.
Retrofitting projectors or LED units? Amazing if you know what you’re doing — catastrophic if you don’t. Retrofit mistakes often cost more than the mod itself.
My rule of thumb:
If a job feels like it requires three hands, two mirrors, contortionist flexibility, and emotional support… outsource it. Pride costs less than broken headlights.
And there’s no shame in that. The Q60 is a beautifully engineered car with lighting that borders on “high-maintenance diva.” Respect the diva. Protect your wallet.
FAQ — Real questions from Q60 drivers
1. Do all Infiniti Q60 years use the same bulbs?
No. The generation shift changes almost everything, which is why a proper Infiniti Q60 bulb size guide exists.
2. Are sealed LED headlights replaceable?
Only as full units. Individual LEDs aren’t serviceable.
3. Is upgrading halogens to LEDs worth it?
Yes, if you buy high-quality LEDs with proper beam patterns.
4. Why do my turn signals hyper-flash after LED upgrades?
The car detects low resistance. You need resistors or CANbus LEDs.
5. Do HID bulbs get dimmer over time?
Absolutely. They degrade gradually and create uneven color shifts.
6. Why do cheap LEDs flicker?
Weak drivers that can’t stabilize the current. Good LEDs fix this problem completely.
7. Which bulb change is easiest?
License plate and reverse lights — zero struggle.
8. Does polarity matter?
For LEDs, yes. Get it wrong, and the bulb won’t turn on at all.
9. Can grounding issues mimic bulb failure?
Yes. Loose grounds cause half the weird behaviors people blame on bulbs.
10. Should I replace bulbs in pairs?
For HIDs and halogens, yes. LEDs don’t require it.
Final thoughts
The Infiniti Q60 blends style, performance, and attitude, but lighting defines how you experience it. Proper bulb choices protect value, clarity, and confidence on the road. Whether you’re working with halogens, HIDs, or LEDs, the Infiniti Q60 bulb size tables above give you clarity so you don’t wing it and burn cash. Be intentional. Choose well-engineered components. Don’t settle for trash-tier LEDs. Lighting affects every night drive — quietly but consistently. Treat it seriously. That’s the real guarantee.
