Ford Fusion Bulb Size by Year: Complete 2006–2020 Lighting Guide
Last Updated on 2025-11-30
Why Ford Fusion bulb size actually matters
If you drive a Ford Fusion, bulb size looks like a boring technical detail until something goes dark at the worst possible moment. I’ve seen people grab “kinda similar” bulbs from a parts store, slam them in, and then wonder why the beam pattern sucks, the dash throws a warning, or the housing starts to melt. Getting the correct Ford Fusion bulb size for your exact model year is the difference between clean, factory-style light and a janky science experiment on wheels.
Ford did what a lot of manufacturers do over a long production run – different trims, facelifts, and options (HIDs, projectors, LEDs) ended up with different bulbs. That’s why a single one-size-fits-all answer doesn’t work. If you want real value from your lighting upgrades, you match bulb size precisely, then think about brightness and technology after that.
In this guide, I’m gonna walk through Ford Fusion bulb size year by year, give you simple tables with direct Amazon search links, and then talk about common lighting problems, LED upgrades, DIY replacement, and those moments when it’s smarter to let a pro handle it. The dream outcome here is simple: you know exactly what fits, you don’t waste money, and you avoid unpleasant surprises at night.
High-level snapshot of Ford Fusion lighting
The Ford Fusion in the U.S. ran from 2006 through 2020. Across that stretch, you get two main generations with facelifts and different headlight configurations. Early cars used standard halogen reflectors; later ones leaned into more modern projectors and tighter exterior styling. Underneath the styling, though, most of the “core” sizes repeat: H11 and H7 for headlights, H11 for fogs, T15 for reverse, 3157 or 7443 for brake and turn, T10 for license plate, and some interior stuff.
If you think of the Ford Fusion bulb size story as a product line, it’s pretty consistent, but there are enough variations that guessing is no bueno. First gen (2006–2012) mixes H7 + H11 and, on some cars, 9005. Second gen (2013–2020) usually sticks with H11/H7 combos, then towards the end of the run, the high and low beams converge on H11. That’s the high-level demand curve; now let’s get into concrete tables you can actually use in the garage. First-generation on 2006–2009 Ford Fusion bulb size.
These early Fusions are straightforward: halogen headlights, H11 fogs, common 3157 bulbs for brake and turn, T15 for reverse, and T10 plus festoon bulbs inside. If you keep your lighting stock-style but brighter (for example, using quality LEDs that match the original Ford Fusion bulb size), you usually avoid weird glare, angry high-beam flashes from other drivers, and electrical drama.
| Position | Bulb type |
| Low beam headlight | H11 |
| High beam headlight | H7 |
| Front fog light | H11 |
| Daytime running light (DRL, where equipped) | 3157 |
| Front turn signal | 3157 |
| Rear turn signal | 3157 |
| Rear brake/tail light | 3157 |
| High-mount brake light | T15 (912/921) |
| Reverse (back-up) light | T15 (912/921) |
| License plate light | T10 (194/168) |
| Dome/map light | 211-2 festoon |
| Mirror puddle light (where equipped) | T10 (194/168) |
If you own a 2006–2009 car and you’re checking Ford Fusion bulb size for a quick LED refresh, this table covers the main exterior and a couple of key interior bulbs you’ll touch most often.
Refreshed First gen 2010–2012 Ford Fusion bulb size
The 2010 refresh brought sharper styling and some tweaks to lighting. Here’s where people start getting confused, because some trims use a combined 9005 high/low setup and others use separate H7/H11 bulbs. If you want a clean upgrade path with no value discrepancy between what you paid and what you actually got, always pop the dust cap off and confirm which bulb is sitting in your housing before ordering.
Brake and turn lamps also evolve a bit, with many 2010–2012 cars using 7443 bulbs for rear brake/tail instead of 3157. That means when you search for Ford Fusion bulb size for this generation, you’ll see both 3157 and 7443 pop up in charts and tools; the table below reflects what most owners will encounter.
| Position | Bulb type |
| Low beam headlight | H11 (some trims 9005) |
| High beam headlight | H7 (some trims 9005) |
| Combined high/low (certain halogen setups) | 9005 (HB3) |
| Front fog light | H11 |
| Front turn signal | 3157 |
| Rear brake/tail light | 7443 |
| High-mount brake light | T15 (912/921) |
| Rear turn signal | 3157 |
| Reverse (back-up) light | T15 (912/921) |
| License plate light | T10 (194/168) |
| Dome/map light | 211-2 festoon |
| Mirror puddle light (where equipped) | T10 (194/168) |
Because of the dual 9005 vs H7/H11 situation, this is the generation where I always double-check the Ford Fusion bulb size physically before committing to LEDs. That one minute of extra effort is a big bonus in terms of saved time and lowered psychological stress later. Second-generation 2013–2016 Ford Fusion bulb size
The full redesign in 2013 moved the Fusion onto a more modern platform with slimmer headlights and a more upscale vibe. Under the skin, though, the lighting hardware is still very manageable: H11 for low beams and fogs, H7 for highs, PW24W for front turns, plus the usual T15 and T10 players elsewhere.
If your goal is a clean LED upgrade that feels OEM-plus rather than a weird retrofit, matching each Ford Fusion bulb size in this generation gives you a solid, differentiated base. You focus on beam pattern and color temperature, instead of worrying whether the thing even plugs in.
| Position | Bulb type |
| Low beam headlight | H11 |
| High beam headlight | H7 |
| Front fog light | H11 |
| Front turn signal | PW24W |
| Reverse (back-up) light | T15 (912/921) |
| License plate light | T10 (194/168) |
| Parking/position light | T10 (194/168) |
| Trunk/cargo light | T10 (194/168) |
| Interior map/dome | T10 (194/168) |
Most owners I talk to start their 2013–2016 upgrades with an H11 LED bulb set for low beams and fogs, then add a matching H7 LED high beam kit. That combo gives a noticeable bump in night driving confidence without feeling like you’re blasting egregious amounts of light everywhere.
Facelifted second-gen 2017–2020 Ford Fusion bulb size
The 2017 facelift tightened the styling and kept the same general bulb ecosystem, with one twist: some 2017–2018 cars can use either H11 or H7 high beams depending on the exact headlight assembly, while 2019–2020 models lean heavily on H11 for both beams. Brake, tail, reverse, and plate lighting stay in the familiar T15/T10 family.
If you’re hunting for Ford Fusion bulb size for a 2017–2020 car, expect the charts to look “same-y,” but always account for that high-beam variation. The safest move is to treat H11 as your baseline, then confirm whether your specific housing wants H7 up top.
| Position | Bulb type |
| Low beam headlight (2017–2020) | H11 |
| High beam headlight (2017–2018, varies by housing) | H11 or H7 |
| High beam headlight (2019–2020, most trims) | H11 |
| Front fog light | H11 |
| Front turn signal | PW24W |
| Tail/brake light (many trims) | T15 (912/921) |
| Reverse (back-up) light | T15 (912/921) |
| License plate light | T10 (194/168) |
| Interior map/dome | T10 (194/168) |
| Trunk/cargo light | T10 (194/168) |
For this generation, a matched set of H11 LED headlights plus H11 LED fogs is usually enough to make the car feel like a much newer design at night, without messing with the stock housings or wiring.
Common Ford Fusion lighting problems
Once you start paying attention to Ford Fusion bulb size, you start seeing the same problems repeat. Low beams that turn yellow and dull, fog lights that barely help in bad weather, reverse lights that give you zero confidence when backing out of a dark driveway – it adds up. On older cars, hazy headlight lenses and cheap off-brand replacement bulbs make everything worse.
I’ve seen owners chase a weird “random flicker” issue for weeks, only to discover they mixed bulb technologies or jammed an oversized LED into a housing that wasn’t designed for that much heat. Poor contact at the socket, corroded connectors, or a loose ground can make a brand-new bulb look faulty. When people talk about their Fusion feeling unsafe at night, it usually isn’t one thing – it’s a stack of small issues on top of the wrong bulbs.
The nice part is that once you align everything with the right Ford Fusion bulb size and use decent parts, your lighting stops feeling like a gamble. You don’t need a crazy guarantee or marketing hype; you simply match the sockets, respect the wiring, and treat the housings like the fixed frame you’re working inside. How to choose LED upgrades without wasting money.
LED upgrades can feel like a candy store – tons of options, lots of bold claims, and a real risk of buying stuff that looks bright on paper but performs terribly on the road. The value you get depends less on raw lumens and more on whether the LED mimics the stock filament position and works with your Fusion’s electronics.
- Match the exact Ford Fusion bulb size first (H11 vs H7 vs 9005 vs 3157, etc.).
- Look for LEDs with a slim emitter profile so the beam pattern stays sharp, especially in reflector housings.
- Prefer options that mention CANbus compatibility or built-in resistors for exterior signals and brake lights.
For headlights and fogs, an H11 LED bulb with a decent heat sink and fan is usually enough; no need to chase the wildest lumen claims. For turn signals and brakes, good 3157 or 7443 LEDs with proper resistors avoid hyperflash and save you from hacking in external load resistors everywhere.
The psychological trap here is urgency – you see those wild before/after pictures and feel niche-slapped into buying the brightest thing on the page. Slow down, verify your Ford Fusion bulb size, and prioritize a clean beam pattern over raw brightness. That’s the play that keeps both you and oncoming traffic happier.
Basic steps for replacing Ford Fusion bulbs
Each generation of Fusion has slightly different access points, but the core process is similar. For headlights, you usually go in from behind the housing under the hood, remove a dust cover, then twist the bulb out. Fog lights often sit in the lower bumper, so you might turn the wheels, pull part of the fender liner back, or drop the undertray to reach the socket.
Turn signals, brake lights, and reverse lights usually live in the tail lamp assemblies. You open the trunk, pull back the trim, undo a couple of fasteners, then slide the lamp out enough to access the bulb carriers. Most of the time, it’s a quick twist to release the socket and another twist to swap the bulb. Straightforward – as long as the replacement matches the Ford Fusion bulb size from the tables earlier.
Inside the car, T10 and festoon bulbs live in dome, map, and trunk fixtures. A plastic trim tool saves you from scratching lenses or prying with a screwdriver, and it helps avoid cracking brittle housings in older cars. I like to treat interior LEDs as a bonus round after the safety-critical exterior stuff is dialed in.
When diy is unsafe or not worth it
Most Fusion bulb swaps are DIY-friendly, but there are some clear lines I wouldn’t cross without experience. If your car has factory HID or a complicated projector system, the voltage and housing design can raise both the risk and the cost of mistakes. At that point, the dream outcome is no longer “save every dollar” – it’s “don’t break an expensive headlight assembly.”
If you see burned connectors, melted plastic around a bulb, or obvious water intrusion in the housing, I’d treat that as a deeper electrical or sealing problem instead of shoving in brighter bulbs. The value of a quick DIY fix drops fast if you end up chasing intermittent faults or blowing fuses later.
Any time a bulb replacement requires major bumper removal, airbag-adjacent trim, or wiring modifications beyond a plug-and-play connection, my default is to get a shop involved. You don’t get a hero bonus for taking unnecessary risks; you get a bill if something goes wrong.
Faq about Ford Fusion bulb size: How do I know which Ford Fusion bulb size I actually have?
First, check the tables in this guide for your model year range. Then pop the hood or open the lamp housing and read the markings on the existing bulb body – they’ll usually say H11, H7, 9005, 3157, 7443, T10, or T15. If what you see in your hand matches what you see in the chart, you’re good. If there’s a mismatch, go with what’s physically in the car and treat the chart as a starting point, not a rigid guarantee.
Can I use LED headlights in a Fusion that originally had halogens?
Yes, as long as you stick to the correct Ford Fusion bulb size for your sockets and pick LEDs that are designed for reflector or projector housings. The main thing is beam pattern – a good H11 or H7 LED kit should put light where the original halogen did, without spraying it everywhere. If you install LEDs and people keep flashing their high beams at you, something’s wrong with aim, bulb choice, or both.
Why do my new LED turn signals hyperflash?
Hyperflash happens because the car expects a certain load from incandescent bulbs. LEDs draw much less, so the system thinks a bulb is burned out and speeds up the flash to warn you. The fix is either an LED specifically built with proper resistance for 3157 or 7443 sockets, or an external resistor wired in parallel. Matching the Ford Fusion bulb size alone doesn’t solve this – you need the right electrical behavior too.
Are cheap “super bright” bulbs worth it?
Usually no. The value proposition looks great at first, but you pay in other ways: weird color, short life, poor beam pattern, or electrical noise. When a bulb listing screams ridiculous lumens for a tiny package and an absurdly low price, assume there’s some commoditization trick in the marketing. A solid mid-range option that respects the original Ford Fusion bulb size and housing design often beats the flashy bargain.
How often should I replace headlight bulbs on a Ford Fusion?
Halogen bulbs slowly dim over time, so even if they haven’t failed, you might notice weaker output after a couple of years, especially if you drive a lot at night. Many owners refresh low beams every 2–3 years to keep performance consistent. LEDs, if you pick a good brand and match the correct Ford Fusion bulb size, should last much longer, but they still depend on heat management and build quality.
Do I need to replace bulbs in pairs?
For headlights and fog lights, yes, I always replace both sides at the same time. Otherwise, you end up with one fresh bright bulb and one tired old one, which looks off and can slightly skew visibility. For brake, reverse, and turn bulbs, it’s less critical, but if I’m already in the housing and the bulbs are the same age, I usually do both. The extra cost is small compared to the bonus of not reopening everything a month later. Will LED interior bulbs drain my battery?
LEDs actually draw less current than the stock halogens, so if anything, they’re easier on the system. The real risk isn’t the Ford Fusion bulb size or LED tech; it’s leaving a dome light on overnight. If your car has any weird behavior with lights staying on when doors are closed, fix that first. With a healthy electrical system, interior LEDs are a net-positive value move. Can a wrong bulb size damage my fusion’s wiring?
It can. If you force a bulb that doesn’t fit, use an overpowered high-wattage halogen, or install an LED with poorly designed resistors, you can overheat sockets, melt plastic, or stress the wiring. That’s why I keep repeating Ford Fusion bulb size like a broken record – it’s the foundation. Once the base is correct, you can focus on technology and brand instead of worrying about basic compatibility.
What’s the best order to upgrade bulbs on a budget?
If money is tight, I start with low beam headlights (H11 on most cars) because they move the safety needle the most. Next, I do brake lights so people behind you get a strong signal, then reverse lights so you can actually see when backing up. Fog and interior bulbs are more of a comfort and aesthetics upgrade – nice, but lower urgency.
Do I need special tools to swap bulbs on a Ford Fusion?
Most bulb changes need basic hand strength and maybe a simple socket set for removing lamp assemblies. A trim tool helps with interior lights and trunk panels, and a pair of gloves keeps oils from your skin off halogen bulbs. If you’re comfortable turning a ratchet and working under the hood, you can handle most Ford Fusion bulb size-related jobs without any exotic tools.
