Complete Mitsubishi Outlander Bulb Size Chart (2003–2025): Easy Look-Up for Every Light
Last Updated on 2025-12-21
Why the Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size becomes a bigger deal than expected
Drivers underestimate bulbs until they fail at the most inconvenient moment imaginable. You turn the key, the world goes dark on one corner of the hood, and your brain shoots straight into urgency mode. That is exactly when knowing the correct Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size becomes the quiet hero of your day. You gain control over a problem that normally drags you toward frustration. I learned years ago that headlight failures create a domino effect—the annoyance of bad visibility, the worry of getting pulled over, the wasted time ordering the wrong bulbs, and the inevitable “gimme my money” energy you feel after returning parts.
The Mitsubishi Outlander lived through several design eras, each shifting lighting strategies. Halogen roots, HID ambitions, LED modernization—every generation changed enough that making assumptions becomes no bueno. Bulb sizes vary year to year, trim to trim, and even option to option. Understanding the Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size lineup helps you unlock high-value upgrades without falling into the commoditization trap of cheap bulbs that claim brightness but give you nothing except glare.
Value grows the moment you take lighting seriously. Good bulbs improve safety, confidence, and late-night driving comfort. They save money by avoiding premature failures. And they simplify your dream outcome of owning a reliable, predictable SUV. This guide walks through every U.S. gasoline-only generation with practical steps, anecdotes, and tables that make selecting the right bulbs almost therapeutic. Your Outlander deserves clarity, and so do you.
Overview of lighting evolution in the Outlander lineup
The Outlander started simple. Halogens everywhere, zero mystery. Then Mitsubishi leaned into HID projectors on higher trims—great visibility, larger repair bills, disproportionate frustration when you buy the wrong bulb type. And finally, the current generation moved heavily into sealed LED modules. That transition changed the whole dynamic. Replacements became scarce in the retail world and pushed many owners toward dealership-level repairs. The Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size story turned from straightforward mechanics into a mix of opportunity and limits.
Here’s the bonus: knowing where each generation falls on the halogen–HID–LED spectrum lets you upgrade strategically. Certain halogen housings respond amazingly to LED bulbs engineered with proper beam control. HID projectors deliver crisp output when maintained. LED modules deliver longevity if you understand their constraints. All of this comes together to help you avoid the psychological drain of trial-and-error purchases.
Generation One (2003–2006): the simple era
The earliest Outlander feels refreshingly uncomplicated. Mitsubishi didn’t overthink anything. Halogen dual-filament 9007 bulbs covered the low and high beams. Turn signals were old-school 1157 and 1156 types. Parking lights used 168 wedges. Fog lights used the humble H3 bulb. This simplicity made DIY repairs cheap, fast, and satisfying. You twist, pull, replace, and move on.
When someone asks me why the Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size matters on an older SUV, I point to the consistency of this era. You won’t run into differentiated trim types or HID modules. You won’t worry about ballast failures. You won’t feel that scarcity mindset when searching for replacements. Everything is available, everything is plug-and-play, and the psychological comfort feels real.
| Function | Bulb size |
| Low beam | 9007 |
| High beam | 9007 |
| Front turn signal | 1157 |
| Parking light | 168 |
| Fog light | H3 |
| Tail light | 1157 |
| Brake light | 1157 |
| Reverse light | 921 |
| Rear turn signal | 1156 |
| License plate | 168 |
Generation two (2007–2013): the era of options and mismatches
This period introduced one of the most common sources of confusion among Outlander owners: halogen vs HID low beams. Some trims shipped with H11 halogens, others arrived with D2S HID projectors. If you pick the wrong Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size here, the mismatch becomes instantly obvious. You either can’t install the bulb, or the projector refuses to fire it, or the wiring harness throws a temper tantrum.
I’ve seen people buy H11 LEDs for HID-equipped models and wonder why the output looks awful. I’ve seen the reverse: people buying D2S HID bulbs for halogen housings, completely unaware of how incompatible they are. That’s what ambiguity does—it grates on your belief system and steals your time.
On the bright side, the rest of the lighting layout stays predictable. Fog lights stay H11. Reverse lights remain 921. Turn signals move to 7440 formats. These models respond very well to quality LED upgrades if installed thoughtfully.
| Function | Bulb size |
| Low beam (halogen) | H11 |
| Low beam (HID trims) | D2S |
| High beam | 9005 |
| Front turn signal | 7440 |
| Fog light | H11 |
| Tail light | 7443 |
| Brake light | 7443 |
| Reverse light | 921 |
| Rear turn signal | 7440 |
| License plate | 168 |
Generation three (2014–2020): modernization with quirks
The third generation arrived with updated styling and a new lighting personality. Halogen low beams remained common. HID projectors appeared again. LED daytime running lights spread across more trims. Fog lights adopted H16 bulbs, which confuses some owners because that size looks familiar but doesn’t behave like H11 at all.
The Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size breakdown is essential here because the trim differences get messy. SE trims often differ from SEL trims in subtle ways. Touring packages complicate things further. I’ve seen more than one person buy D3S HID bulbs for an Outlander that actually required H11 halogens. Those moments create unnecessary value destruction—money spent wrong, time wasted, goal delayed.
When upgrading this generation to LEDs, you gain real improvements if—and only if—the beam pattern stays controlled. Cheap LEDs create light scatter that blinds others and fails to throw usable light. High-quality LEDs with precise focal points transform nighttime driving, especially in rural areas.
| Function | Bulb size |
| Low beam (halogen) | H11 |
| Low beam (HID trims) | D3S |
| High beam | 9005 |
| Fog light | H16 |
| Front turn signal | 7443 |
| Tail light | 7443 |
| Brake light | 7443 |
| Reverse light | 7440 |
| Rear turn signal | 7440 |
| License plate | 168 |
Generation four (2022–present): LEDs rule everything around us
The latest gasoline-only Outlander moved nearly everything to LED modules. This modern approach delivers clean aesthetics and long lifespan, but it steals the old-school satisfaction of easy bulb swaps. Mitsubishi sealed most core components, including low beams, high beams, and brake lights, inside non-serviceable assemblies. When they fail, the replacement path pushes you straight into dealership territory.
Still, several serviceable bulbs remain. Turn signals use 7440. The fog lights use H16. Reverse lights and license plate bulbs stay accessible. The Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size table for this generation protects you from guesswork, because LED-era mistakes tend to cost disproportionate amounts of money.
| Function | Bulb size |
| Low beam | LED module (non-serviceable) |
| High beam | LED module (non-serviceable) |
| Front turn signal | 7440 |
| Fog light | H16 |
| Tail light | LED module |
| Brake light | LED module |
| Reverse light | 7440 |
| Rear turn signal | 7440 |
| License plate | 168 |
Lighting problems, Mitsubishi Outlander drivers keep running into
Owning multiple generations teaches you patterns. Halogens dim slowly, so you barely notice until one looks embarrassingly yellow next to a new replacement. HID bulbs age unevenly, creating mismatched color temperatures. Cheap LEDs overheat and flicker, a consequence of bad drivers and weak thermal management. Wiring corrosion causes false failure alerts. Connectors loosen with age, especially in older Outlanders, where vibration plays a bigger role.
I’ve seen Outlanders show random fog light failures caused by moisture creeping past a worn rubber cap. I’ve seen reverse lights that burn out quickly because the wrong wattage rating was installed. I’ve even seen people blame their alternator for flickering headlights when the real culprit was an off-brand LED with a driver that couldn’t handle load variation.
The more you understand Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size compatibility, the easier it becomes to diagnose instead. Diagnosis saves time, energy, and an egregious amount of money.
How to pick LEDs without falling for hype
LED upgrades feel tempting because they promise brightness that borders on sci-fi. But brightness numbers mean almost nothing. The psychological trick behind lumen marketing is simple: give people a big number, and watch the demand curve rise. But the beam pattern wins every single time. If the light output doesn’t hit the reflector or projector at the correct point, visibility decreases even if the bulb looks brighter.
That’s how low-quality LEDs create hazards. They shoot light sideways, up, sideways again—every direction except where you need it. Your dream outcome becomes disappointment. You waste money. And your car becomes a rolling annoyance.
Pick LEDs engineered specifically to match the bulb’s focal height. Pick options with passive or active cooling. Pick models tested for automotive-grade durability. These choices raise value and cut risk. They also stop you from falling into the “cheap LEDs fail fast” story that repeats across every forum thread.
How to replace bulbs safely
I like to treat bulb replacement like a rhythm: prepare, disconnect, remove, install, test, celebrate. A simple loop that keeps your brain calm and your hands confident. That rhythm shifts depending on which Mitsubishi Outlander generation you’re dealing with, because each design team made its own choices about access, wiring, and how much they expected owners to do themselves. When you understand the differences, you avoid every no-bueno surprise that ruins a quick job.
The first- and second-generation Outlanders give you wide, generous access behind the headlights. You pop the hood, reach behind the housing, twist the socket, and life feels easy. There’s no weird plastic maze blocking your arm, no aggressive clips daring you to break them. If you treat these early models with basic care—gloves for halogens, clean connectors, dust caps sealed tightly—you achieve your dream outcome of a five-minute repair with zero stress. These SUVs reward straightforward work.
The third generation tightens everything up. Space becomes a luxury item. You can still replace H11 or 9005 bulbs on your own, but you might feel like your wrist is negotiating a lease inside the headlight housing. Some trims require removing the washer-fluid neck to create hand room. Others demand patience while you navigate wiring harnesses that zigzag like they were designed on a dare. Still, the process stays doable for most people who don’t mind working by feel. The biggest challenge here is maintaining your rhythm when you can’t see what you’re touching.
Fourth-generation Outlanders rewrite the whole story. LED modules dominate the lighting system, and Mitsubishi sealed many of them into integrated housings that were never meant to be opened by anyone without dealership tools. You still get serviceable fog lights, turn signals, reverse lights, and license plate bulbs, but the major stuff—low beams, high beams, brake lights—live in LED assemblies that don’t play nice with DIY ambitions. Once you understand that, you stop fighting the design and start focusing on the accessible components instead of trying to pry open something that won’t budge. Respect the limits. It saves money and sanity.
No matter the generation, follow a few core principles. Disconnect the battery when working around HID systems because ballasts can deliver a voltage spike that ruins your day. Wear gloves so skin oils don’t scorch halogen glass. Don’t yank connectors—push the release tab and wiggle them free. Aim for snug, positive engagement when reinstalling sockets, because loose contacts create flicker that makes the whole job feel like a waste. And always test the bulbs before closing everything, because reopening a cramped housing twice is a psychological punishment.
Replacing bulbs safely isn’t about being a perfectionist. It’s about avoiding stupid damage, avoiding electrical drama, and avoiding unnecessary trips to the dealer, where profit margins get wild. Keep your rhythm steady, respect what each Outlander generation demands, and you’ll finish with clean light output, restored confidence, and a tiny celebration moment when everything works on the first try.
When diy becomes unsafe or unwise
DIY ends when LED modules fail. DIY ends when ballast wiring looks toasted. DIY ends when a connector crumbles in your hand from heat exposure. And DIY ends when the housing cracks or seals break internally. At that moment, a technician becomes your guarantee. I believe in DIY, but I also believe in avoiding accidents and unnecessary electrical drama.
FAQ: Deeper answers for Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size questions
1. Why does the Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size differ between trims that look identical?
Because Mitsubishi loved mixing equipment packages. Two Outlanders parked side by side can share the same grille, wheels, seats, and still use different headlight technologies. Touring packages, appearance packages, and mid-year updates create variation. Always check the housing type before buying anything; otherwise, you risk ordering bulbs that your car rejects instantly.
2. Does switching from halogen to LED improve real-world visibility or only brightness on paper?
Real visibility improves only when the LED matches the reflector or projector’s focal point. A badly engineered LED can look brighter when you stand in front of the car, but throw less usable light onto the road. The dream outcome comes controlled beam pattern, not raw lumen marketing hype.
3. Why do some Outlanders burn through bulbs faster than expected?
Several factors contribute: heat trapped behind the housing, vibration from worn engine mounts, weak ground points, or cheap bulbs with low thermal tolerance. If you replace the same bulb repeatedly, inspect the connectors and grounding. The issue usually isn't the bulb—it's the environment it lives in.
4. My HID Outlander has one pinkish headlight and one white one—what does that mean?
Classic HID aging. When a D2S or D3S HID bulb approaches the end of its life, it shifts toward purple or pink before failing. Replace both bulbs as a pair. New HID bulbs next to old ones look mismatched and create a psychological itch every time you stare at your reflection in a storefront window.
5. Why do aftermarket LEDs cause “bulb out” warnings?
LEDs draw significantly less current than halogens. The Outlander’s monitoring system interprets the reduced draw as a failure. Resistors or CANBUS-compatible LEDs solve the problem—though resistors get hot, so mount them responsibly instead of zip-tying them to random plastics. No bueno.
6. My fog lights keep collecting moisture—am I doing something wrong?
Probably not. Fog light housings sit low, take abuse from water spray, and rely on small rubber caps to maintain the seal. When those caps get old, moisture sneaks in. Dry the housing, replace the cap or gasket, and avoid leaving openings when upgrading bulbs. Moisture is a silent killer of LED drivers.
7. Can LED reverse bulbs actually make parking easier?
Yes. Reverse LEDs using 7440 or 921 bases create a massive improvement in brightness and clarity behind the vehicle. The upgrade feels like a value cheat code—the amount of extra visibility you get for such a small mod feels almost unfair.
8. Should I ever polish the headlights instead of replacing bulbs?
Absolutely. If your lenses oxidize, even the best bulbs lose impact. Polishing or restoring the lens rebuilds clarity and lets the bulb perform like it’s supposed to. Lens degradation is one of the most overlooked causes of “dim headlights” on older Outlanders.
9. Why do some LED bulbs flicker only when the engine is running?
Because the alternator output fluctuates slightly, and cheap LED drivers can’t regulate those variations. A high-quality LED driver smooths voltage changes and eliminates flicker. This is one of those moments where “engineering over hype” delivers huge value.
10. What’s the safest bulb to upgrade first if I don’t want to overhaul everything?
Reverse lights or license plate bulbs. They’re easy, low-risk, and immediately useful. If you want a driving-focused upgrade, go for fog lights on halogen-equipped Outlanders—H16 LEDs add visibility without the complexity of housing-specific headlight upgrades.
11. Are aftermarket LED turn signals worth it?
Yes, but only if you solve hyperflash. The increased crispness looks modern, and the LED response time improves signaling. Just don’t skip load resistors or CANBUS bulbs, because hyperflash looks chaotic and gives your Outlander confused energy.
12. Can I ignore a dim headlight if it’s still technically working?
You can, but you shouldn’t. Dim bulbs reduce your reaction distance at night. They also signal that the bulb is close to complete failure. Replace early and save yourself a late-night surprise or an unwelcome conversation with law enforcement.
Final thoughts
The Mitsubishi Outlander bulb size landscape spans simplicity, confusion, and modern LED limitations. But the more you understand each generation’s quirks, the easier your maintenance life becomes. Lighting upgrades offer value, clarity, and confidence when done right. They also reveal how small components shape your driving experience without fanfare. Your Outlander deserves lighting that works every time—without stress, without mismatches, without wasted money. And once you know the correct bulb sizes, achieving that dream outcome becomes almost effortless.
